Best American Travel Writing of 2011

 I have been a long-time fan of the Best American Short Stories series so when the other books in the "Best American" category were on sale recently I picked up a few including two that I really enjoyed The Best American Travel Writing and The Best American Sports Writing.

Both are filled with a wide variety of stories not just about sports and travel but about the human experience. I particularly enjoyed the travel selections.

Taking the Train Across Canada

This one is for Jenn, who told me it's one of her dreams to take the train across Canada.

Taking the Train

This week we're living vicariously through our cousins who are traveling from Denver to San Francisco by train to celebrate Thanksgiving and my aunt's 70th birthday. From amtrak.com:

One of the most popular western trains, the California Zephyr traverses much of the West's spectacular scenery. Departing from Denver, you'll snake upward on the Front Range of the Rockies and cross the Great Divide. As you go by train, try to imagine how this daunting landscape must have looked to the first settlers who came by horse or on foot.

To go through this exceptionally rugged terrain, the train takes numerous switch-backs as it gains altitude. Traveling through the first of 29 tunnels, it's easy to see the huge obstacles that early railroad companies had to surmount. In the Roosevelt National Forest, the train crests the Continental Divide at the famed, six-mile-long Moffat Tunnel. When it opened in 1928, the tunnel reduced the time it took to cross the Continental Divide from hours to minutes. In the midst of the tunnel, you will reach a high point of more than 9,000 feet above sea level.

As the train runs into the deep Gore and Glenwood Canyons, sheer rock walls towering above the Colorado River envelope the train as it glides through. As the train skirts the river, you'll see rafters taking advantage of this natural wild ride. Fiery red mountains and spectacular rock formations are highlights of the Colorado River Valley, particularly in Ruby Canyon.

Exiting the valley, you'll spot Grand Mesa, the world's largest flat-topped mountain. Then you'll head across the Utah desert to Salt Lake City. From there, the colorful Nevada desert will lead you towards the High Sierras and California's famed Donner Pass.

Finally, this journey that has taken you to the heights of exhilaration ends with yet one more visual masterpiece — the city by the bay, San Francisco.

One of the cool things about the trip, beside the scenic route, is that it's part of the Park Service's Trails & Rails program through the US Forest Service Intermountain Region (from Denver to Grand Junction):

The Trails & Rails programs are as diverse as the volunteer rangers presenting the programs. On any given route you may hear the stories of the area or have an opportunity to closely examine artifacts that relate to the route. On some programs you may find musical offerings, or rangers dressed in living history costumes or historical attire.

 It'll take 33 hours (8am first day until 4pm second day). I can't wait to hear how it goes and how they like it!

Wade Chapel

While we were at Lakeview Cemetery on Friday we visited the Wade Memorial Chapel.

The interior was designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany and his studios in New York and it is stunning. The centerpiece is an enormous stained glass window at the front of the chapel:

Along the side walls are intricate mosaic murals (each one is 8 feet tall and 32 feet long) depicting sections of the Old Testament of the Bible. The docent, a former Latin teacher, shined a light on different areas and explained their significance. 

My nephew, Ethan, who visited in the spring with his gifted class, told us about the back entrance. The chapel is built on a hillside with the back a level lower so the horse-drawn carriage could deliver the coffin sight unseen. Inside the back entrance, a series of pulleys would raise the deceased up to the front of the chapel. 

On a side note, even the floor in the chapel was beautiful:

Learn more about the chapel here.

Terminal Tower Observation Deck

Saturday, T, Gram and I visited the Observation Deck on the 42nd floor of the Terminal Tower in downtown Cleveland.

Photo from All Things Cleveland of the Tower, taken from the Cuyahoga River

The Observation Deck is open Saturdays and Sundays from mid-April til mid-December on Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Tickets are $5 per person and can be purchased online at http://terminaltowerodeck.eventbrite.com/ (with a small credit fee per ticket) or at the Guest Services desk in Tower City (cash only). We parked in the underground garage at the corner of W 6th and Superior - from the P2 level our elevator came out right in the lobby of the Tower. (Just be careful because many of the spots are marked reserved.)

We were really happy that the weather held (there was a 60% chance of rain). Here are our pictures from the Observation Deck: 

Looking to the north: Browns Stadium and Lake Erie; Key Building on the right.

close up of the wind turbine in front of the Great Lakes Science Center.

Cuyahoga River

Looking northwest. The dots in the lake are two lighthouses.

Zooming in on the lighthouses.

Looking down at Public Square.

The Observation Deck opened in spring 2010 after being closed for years. It's been restored to its original 1920s decor. One of the nice features is that at each of the windows there is a photo with major landmarks labeled so you know just what you're looking at. The whole building is beautiful. 

Compass on the floor of the observation deck area

lobby elevator doors

The staff told us visiting in December you can see all the holiday lights and decorations... so maybe we'll have to go back up!

Cleveland Area To-Do List

Things I'd like to do or see while we're visiting this summer

The Fairport Harbor Marine Museum is the first Great Lakes Lighthouse Marine Museum in the State of Ohio, as well as the United States. The museum, which also has a small gift shop, is located at

129 Second St., Fairport Harbor, OH 44077.

Open on Wednesdays, Saturdays, Sundays & Legal Holidays 1:00 P.M. to 6:00 P.M.

Admission to the Museum and Tower Adults - $4.00, Seniors - $3.00, Ages 6-12 - $2.00

The lighthouse is 69 feet tall so it should be an easy climb.

Biscotti's Family Winery

Tuesday- Thursday 12-5pm Friday - Sataurday 12-6

Buccia Vineyard

Markko Vineyard

Hours: 11am - 6pm Monday - Saturday - Tastings by appointment -

phone: 800-252-3197

Tarsitano Winery & Cafe

July-October: Mon -Wed 12-5, Thurs, Fri, & Sat 12-9pm, Sun. 12-6

Also hoping the new Market Garden Brewery on West 25th will be open soon!

Metropolis (OBX) Review

A week ago Wednesday we had a great meal with great company on adults night out at the beach. Mom and her grandsons had a date too with pizza (thanks Jessica for the Pizzazz recommendation) and then a walk down the beach to Dairy Queen for dessert.

We chose the restaurant because it was close, and because with the word martini in the title we figured it would not be filled with children! Metropolis Martini and Tapas turned out to be a great decision.

After being seated and told the drink specials, the chef came to our table to tell us about the food specials. They all sounded so great that we put ourselves in his hands and let him craft our dinner. Great decision #2. Here is a recap of most but not all of our meal:

We started with an Artisanal Cheese (Mano from Wisconsin and Maytag Blue) Plate with Fresh Fruit (apples, strawberries and blueberries) & Dried Fruit (brandy-soaked golden raisins), Nuts (curried pecans) & Crackers and Charcuterie

yum, bleu cheese!

Next we had bowls of the soup of the day, Cream of Asparagus, which had super sweet lump crab in the center of the bowl, sprinkled with garlic bread crumbs and finished with truffle oil: 

Amazing

Next up, fresh porcini mushroom with goat cheese pizza.

Black and white sesame seated tuna with sushi set up (soy sauce, wasabi, and pickled ginger). The wasabi was Extra Hot!

Tartar of Columbia River King Salmon. So delish!!

Duckleg Confit w/ House BBQ Sauce, Toasted Corn Pudding & Local Peach Chutney.

Seared Wild Alaskan Halibut with Fennel Salad and North Carolina Blueberry Gastrique

"Carolina Creole", Shrimp, VA Country Ham and Mussel on Carolina Rice w/ Zucchini, Tomato & Onion in a Broth of White Wine, Butter & Cajun Spices. Christian's favorite. 

Seared Columbia River King Salmon with Cucumber Salad and Yogurt. Gayle and I loved this, so much in fact that we practically ate the whole thing before we remembered to take its picture!

A testament to how good everything was - tons of empty plates! 

Great decision #3 was to have dessert! 

 Vanilla panna cotta with fresh fruit. Creamier than I expected. Yum!

 Chocolate. Need I say more? 

Local peach bread pudding (that was so light it was more like a souffle) with a fried peach (with funnel cake batter) and bourbon vanilla cream. Chocoholic Gayle said this was better than chocolate. High praise! (The peaches were perfect, fresh, sweet, juicy; I had a peach martini with fresh local fruit that was stellar.) 

Altogether it was a great evening!

Metropolis

520 Old Stoney Road

Corolla, NC 27927

metropolisobx.com

http://www.facebook.com/pages/METROPOLIS/20014204998

Currituck Beach Lighthouse

Continuing the recap of our week at the beach:
After attempting to visit the local lighthouse, Currituck Beach Lighthouse, on Wednesday afternoon and turning around due to the line, we went back on Thursday morning and really enjoyed the visit and the climb (216 steps) to the top!

 The exterior walls are very thick - from about 3 1/2 feet to over 5 feet at the base.

view from the bottom looking up the stairs (hello John and Gayle!)

 J&G at the top!

Mom, Chrissy and the boys at the top

view of the marsh

Other lighthouses in North Carolina

close up of the top (from ground level)

The keepers house (now a gift shop)

Currituck Beach Light Station

1101 Corolla Village Road

Corolla, NC 27927

Open daily 9am-5pm in season, til 8pm on Thursday

$7 to climb, free for kids 7 and under.

We recommend you go before 10am - last Wednesday they had 1400 visitors!

Corolla Village on Dwellable

Wild Horses in North Carolina?

It's true, there are wild horses up at the end of the Outer Banks, past where the road runs out. Frankly, one of the best parts about looking for them is getting to drive on the beach! We first went out around 2 in the afternoon and had no luck, but there were so many cars and people on the beach that we weren't surprised. Our second trip out was at 6:30am. More fun than the first - no traffic to contend with - and we saw a few horses!

John's 4-wheel-drive Jeep Cherokee, on the beach. I wish we had gotten some action shots! Thanks, John, for letting us use your car!

grazing on the dunes

one of them is definitely a youngster

a far shot to show how close the horses were to people - there was a man sitting in the gazebo there on the left!

We did the self-tour but you can also book tours with guides. My friend Leslie recommends Wild Horse Adventure Tours. Learn more about the wild horses at http://www.currituckwildhorses.com/

Corolla Village on Dwellable